Veritably Vienna

Friday April 17th - Sunday April 19th

I looked at her quizzically, doubting my ears and politely asked her to repeat. There it was again. She repeated herself. Yes, in Vienna, while riding the trains, busses and trams, you are not required to swipe your ticket or tap it anywhere or even present it to anyone. The commuter is "trusted" to purchase the ticket before taking a ride. Yes, of course, spot checks are sometimes conducted (but a rarity) by the Metro Cops and if a purchased ride is not found on your person, a fine of 60 Euros is slapped along with the cost of the ride the person was taking when caught in the act.

Unwilling to believe my ears, I politely rephrased my question - "what I meant to ask was, where do I swipe this (holding the ticket in my hand) to enter the platform?". She smiled and said "keep the ticket with you and just walk onto the train.". So, as I understood, this is how one uses public transportation in Vienna - enter metro station, walk onto the platform, step into the train. I was stunned. Such degree of trust??? Can you imagine this happening in NYC??? The NYC MTA is busy hiking fares while in Vienna they "trust" commuters to purchase rides. I pocketed my 3-day pass costing 13 Euros and walked out of the ticketing office in disbelief.

I had just landed in Vienna from New York on Friday morning and this occurred while I was en route to my rental apartment in Vienna. My 7-hour 40-minute Austrian Airlines flight from NYC was uneventful, however, I have to mention here that the aircraft felt cramped, especially, the unusually small seats which contributed to the feeling.

I managed to secure an aisle seat in the exit row which afforded me ample leg space but the true advantage and pleasure of occupying that seat was in enjoying the company of this very kind Austrian gentleman - Mag. Bernd S. Lubenik - a military advisor with the Ministry of Defense of Austria and posted at the UN. I have to mention that had it not been for his wide-ranging advice about all things Austrian and Viennese, I would have been lost in Vienna upon disembarking the aircraft. His knowledge was vast and advice startlingly detailed. His advice informed me how to navigate within Vienna, what metro trains and buses to take, where to go, what to explore in Vienna over a brief stay, he even mapped my race-day commute for me - how I would get to the start line and how I should get back to my apartment after the race. His instructions were accurate, very thoughtful, precise and enormously helpful for a first-time traveler to Vienna. Once we disembarked the aircraft, he and his wife waited for me to retrieve my checked luggage and then personally directed me to the Airport bus I should take to city center. (The bus ride was swift, smooth and economical, costing 6 Euros only. The other alternative is to take the CAT train, which is faster but costs more than twice at 15 Euros. Frugality motivated me to opt for the bus.). The gentleman was incredibly kind to me - a total stranger to him. I am very indebted to him.

The bus ride to city center lasted for 30 minutes and I got off at the last stop – Westbanhof - as advised. It appears to be one of the major transit hubs of Vienna (I thought it to be similar to Penn Station, NY). At Westbanhof, I bought my 3-day Metro pass and took the Metro to the stop closest to my rental apartment.

My accommodation in Vienna

The rental apartment - oh dear, frugality comes with a price to pay! I have often opted for rental apartments when I travel, where ever available because they tend to be cheaper and well-located in the city. My choice for accommodation in Vienna turned out to be very modest and tiny. The apartment building was located in a Turkish neighborhood. The building was old and dilapidated and a walkup (no elevators). The rental came without any toiletries and hot water was scant in the mornings. My first shower upon my arrival was with icy cold water! I was certain I was doomed to catch a chill but I didn't, fortunately. Only one set of two towels for the entire stay and no place to hang them! The bathroom could barely fit me and it had the smallest sink I have ever seen in my life. I ended up using the kitchen sink for my ablutions. The floor tiles in the hallways trembled, creaked and cringed as I walked over them and at night the corridors and stairways would be pitch dark. I had to feel the walls to make my way to my apartment. The television didn't work and the bed was actually a sofa bed which pulled out.

The Marathon

I arrived in Vienna to participate in a running event - the Vienna City Half Marathon as a training run for a full marathon I intend to run next month. Upon arrival I decided to upgrade to the full marathon distance but not with an intent to run the entire 26 miles. I had thought I would run about 15 miles and then drop off the race route. The day before the race I was all over Vienna and returned to my apartment around 11pm. I was unable to sleep a wink all night and woke up at 4am on race morning. I felt tired even before the race.

The Vienna City Marathon is the premier sporting event of Austria. Approximately 30,000 runners participate from all over the world. It is a well-organized event and begins at the base of a bridge, quite like the NYC marathon, however, the two races can not be compared. The NYC race is an event which I think remains unmatched. The Vienna crowds were supportive and often energetic in their cheering. Bands played at certain intervals along the route, however, as was the case at race start, often along the race route classical and semi-classical music was played, which I thought to be an unusual choice for a sporting event. Water stations were located at every 5 kilometers and porter potties could be found regular intervals along the route. The route meanders through the city and its various parks, and often many runners (including myself) would dart off into the trees to “irrigate them”.

Race day was a warm, bright and sunny day. I was advised that Vienna can be a windy city and anticipating pockets of strong winds, I decided to wear layers. Well, the weather was beautiful and it was not windy at all. A few minutes after the start, I felt very warm and had to peel off the extra layers and wrapped them around my waist. I was sweating quite a bit and I had barely covered 4 miles. After I crossed the 13-mile mark, I decided to give up after another couple of miles. My legs were really tired and I felt swept by waves of dizziness. Well, I didn’t quite stop running. I kept adding miles to my total and after I crossed the 20th-mile mark, I knew that I had to finish the race to pocket the finisher’s medal. The medal seduced me to the finish line. My body was very tired due to lack of rest and sleep. My feet, ankles, legs and hips ached. I had to stop and walk a few times and took several bathroom breaks where ever possible (some Viennese trees have tales to tell……). At last, I crossed the finish line and heaved a huge sigh of relief. I ran the 26.2 miles in 5 hours and 9 minutes, almost 30 minutes slower than my first marathon last year in NYC.

Vienna ("Wien")

The city, in the evening, disappears under a shroud of tranquility. People spill about lazily but remain civil and orderly. I found them very proper and polite. Strangers on the street would dart a soft smile at you if their eyes locked with yours fleetingly, unlike in NYC where a stare could earn you a stinging expletive.

As I walked about the city, light strains of music would lend the air a lilting fragrance. The music would be both contemporary and classical, but more often, classical which lent the atmosphere a veneer of sophistication. Music defines Vienna's personality. It runs through it like blood. Concerts abound all over the city which houses some of the best music houses in the world. I was tempted to be an audience to a concert but the cost exceeded my stringent budget for the trip. Maybe next time.....

On Friday evening, I was taking a stroll on the streets of the first district, and as I crossed one square into the other, skirting past dry fountains and old gothic statues, my eyes admiring the nocturnal charm and beauty of Vienna and feet skipping over the cobblestoned pavements, concealed lighting illuminating the gorgeous facades of the architectural wonders of bygone eras under the starry skies, suddenly, over the soft pedestrian chatter, I heard strains of a violin being played in the distance. The music was alluring and arresting. I grew curious and followed the sound. The dulcet notes grew closer with every step I took and just then, amidst the lazy, evening pedestrian traffic, I saw this tall, handsome, slim young man in a dark suit seated and playing the violin so marvelously that despite my lack of knowledge of classical music, I was stricken by it, almost entranced by it. I stood in a corner and heard him play and many others milled around me, charmed by his talent and the wonders of his rendition, the chill in the air unable to tear our attention away. After he stopped, his audience erupted in applause and once the crowd dissipated, I went up to him and learned that he was playing a composition of a very old Italian composer by the name of Francesco Maria Veracini. This young chap, a Czech by heritage but now a resident of Vienna, came into possession of the music sheets of this Italian composition. He couldn't remember what the composition was called but confirmed that it was by Veracini. We chatted briefly and I learned that he plays in that spot almost every day and remained thankful for the crowds who patronize him. He finds impromptu outdoor performances very satisfying as an artist, giving him the liberty to take liberties with his talent. My chance encounter with him and his talent certainly made my evening.

Vienna is architecturally stunning. History stares down at you at every corner with a well-deserved arrogance. Although major sections of Vienna were destroyed in the WWII, it still manages to leave the visitor stunned by its portentous historical beauty and charm. However, I must admit that there is a quaint sadness about Vienna, a melancholia which clouds its countenance like a slight, lingering shadow. It was intriguing to me.

Vienna is home to almost all ethnicities of the world. The crowds on the streets appear to be a potpourri of faces representing various parts of the globe. Austria has witnessed an influx of Eastern Europeans whose emigration is not embraced favorably by the original residents, it seems. They are often blamed for petty crimes and disorderly conduct.

I found the Viennese (or the “Wieners”) to be very cordial and friendly people, who go out of their way to help the tourists in their city. German is the primary language spoken here but I didn't face language handicap in the first district of the city (could also be referred to as the "downtown"), which is where I spent most of my time.

The first district is encircled by "Ring Road" and houses the prime real estate of Vienna. Almost all of Vienna's must-see sights are located right here in the first district. One requires a couple of weeks (or maybe more) to fully explore Vienna but since I was strapped for time, I hopped on a "Ring Tour" tram which took me around the Ring Road in 30 minutes and covered the major attractions. Cost – 6 Euros.


Vegan dining in Vienna;
My new friend, Lilia, and her vegan journey...

As a vegan, every travel of mine begins with a research about vegetarian/vegan-friendly places to dine. I research online, then map the venues (thank you, Google Maps!) and, upon arrival, visit the locations to satisfy my gastronomic desires. Prior to my departure, I learned about a vegan restaurant named “Bio Bar von Antun” in Vienna (www.biobar.at ). I decided to make it my first stop for dinner upon arrival in Vienna. After my day-long perambulatory excursions across the City, I decided it was time for some calorific intake and Bio Bar loomed upon my mind. I pulled out the map and after many wrong turns, finally landed at its doorstep where I was warmly greeted by a cheerful face who turned out to be my hostess – Lilia.

The restaurant has been operating at its present location for 8 years. At its previous location in Vienna, it operated for 10 years. Lilia hails from Belgrade, and supports a warm sweet smile which reminds me of Robin Williams' in Mrs. Doubtfire. In fact, her delicate and soft utterance of "My dear" bears a striking resemblance to Williams' in the movie. Bio Bar von Antun is owned by Lilia's cousin whose wife - Madelaine Petrovic - is an Austrian politician.

Lilia considers herself to be a pioneer of veganism in Vienna, maybe even in Austria, she admitted with a hint of humility. Lilia's vegan journey began more than 17 years ago. She doesn't remember why she invested her energies, time and money in a vegan/macrobiotic endeavor. She does remember speaking to her father and friends about it who chided her for being "abnormal". Vegan, in Austria - the sausage country?? She must be crazy! Who would patronize her? She did not give up. She remained steadfast in her resolve to introduce vegan and macrobiotic diet to the Austrians. I enquired why and she responded that she wanted to dabble into something unusual and different, something which was healthy and beneficial to the people. She wanted to make a difference somehow and this, she admitted, came closest to her heart as a way to achieve what she had in mind. She acquired a small place and opened a restaurant in the 17th district of Vienna which was close to theaters and a university. Alone she toiled tirelessly to operate the restaurant. She told me that she worked from early morning to late at night cooking and serving her clientele, which included students and faculty members from the university and the evenings witnessed the theater-going crowds. After the evening performances were over, the artists and theater workers would invade her restaurant, keeping her on her feet late into the night. She worked tirelessly!

A few years after she opened her first restaurant, she met with a devastating accident. She lay in the hospital bed, unable to speak (her teeth were shattered) and the doctors told her that her legs may have to get amputated. It was December 8th, she says. Snow fell from the dark foreboding firmament outside her hospital room window. She lay there with her world on the brink of being shattered completely. She has two kids who were young then. She was responsible for raising them. How would she take care of her kids as a disabled person? A mother's worry plagued her. As she lay there that snowy evening, she shared with me, suddenly she heard voices in her head. The voices told her she must stop eating meat. Yes, she was operating a vegan/macrobiotic restaurant already, but she herself was not a vegan yet. The voices demanded that she must give up eating meat right away for the sake of a small boy in India who was blind. If she turned vegetarian and shunned all things that composed blood, that small boy will gain the gift of sight within 13 years, the voice spoke thus. On her hospital bed she had a surreal vision of a little boy crouched (his face hidden) in a land far, far away. In that paralyzed state she made a determined decision - she gave up meat consumption. She never met that boy or even knew who he was or what he looked like. She turned vegan trusting the voice in her head in an attempt to give the little unknown boy the gift of vision. It has been 15 years and she hopes that a young boy somewhere in India enjoys the gift of sight...... Lilia still wonders why the voices in her head spoke of an Indian boy. She could not fathom the connection. Lilia recovered from the accident completely. Her legs were saved because she decided to change hospitals and get a second opinion. She flits about the small restaurant so energetically, catering to all customers single-handedly, that it is hard to imagine how once this woman was at the verge of losing her legs.

Lilia has two daughters - Indira and Aida-Tara. Lilia has also followed and embraced the teachings of Sri Chinmoy of India. Lilia divides her time between Belgrade and Vienna. Her family is here but Belgrade is still her home, even after spending decades in Austria. Lilia's other passion is writing children’s books. She is a woman of many talents and remarkable energy and resolve.

The restaurant, as I observed over the evenings I dined there, keeps fairly busy. It is handsomely patronized by both the locals and vegan food hunters like myself. The kitchen is manned by Lilia's sister while Lilia seats the guests and plays the hostess. She also mans the bar (yes, it has a bar but I have stayed away from alcohol consumption during this trip).

Lilia and I developed an affinity for each other almost instantly. Her warm personality seemed to suggest a caring heart. During dinner on Friday we seemed to have laid a foundation for something which blossomed rapidly over my next two visits. I promised to return on Saturday for my pre-race meal and I stood by my promise. She was delighted to learn that I was running the race on Sunday and as I stood up to leave the restaurant on Saturday evening, she brought over some vegan goodies to go with my morning coffee. Placing the small packet in my hands she said, “You must have this. This will be good for you tomorrow morning.” I was so touched by her kindness and thought. Once again, I promised to return to the restaurant after the race on Sunday for my last dinner in Vienna and again, I kept my word. In fact, I looked forward to it. I took some pictures of the restaurant on Sunday and some of Lilia’s too. I showed her my finisher’s medal and excitedly she asked me if she could hold it. I asked her to wear it for me, which she obliged readily and posed for photographs. As I departed from her company that Sunday evening, we exchanged contact information and she said to me, “Please, we must stay in touch. You are family now.” Her words were affecting, as were the eyes which stared at me. I knew right there and then, I was walking away richer by another dear friendship.

Here is what Lilia served to me and I relished very much at Bio Bar von Antun.......

Friday April 17th/7:30pm

It began with a lovely cran-apple juice drink and fresh salad followed by a vegan "Zwiebel-Rostbraten" (2 wheat gluten cutlets with fried onions) served with fried Potatoes and Horseradish-Apple-Dip - an Austrian specialty turned vegan - absolutely mouth-wateringly delicious. The cutlets gently resisted my fork as it sank through them but surprised me with their flavorful personality, the potatoes were savory and the dip exploded over the tongue quite like fireworks in the sky but, delicately. Dessert arrived in the form of a chocolate vegan, gluten-free cake and a soy-cappuccino. The cake was moist and stood upon a slim foundation of minced nuts and fruit.

As I enjoyed my meal, folksy tunes of the Portugese "Fado" sung by a female singer, and Spanish gypsy music filled the restaurant infusing much passion and yearning.

Pre-Marathon meal
Saturday April 18th/5:30pm

Lilia prepared a delicious fruit cocktail for me to go with my dinner. It was so fresh and agreeable that it vanished even before it could fully settle in the glass. The appetizer constituted a savory and hearty potato, rosemary soup with a mild dash of spices. Vegan soya cream swirled over the creamy soup with traces of rosemary making itself known in the right measure at the right places. The main course was a very satisfying whole wheat spaghetti with vegan Bolognese. The dessert was an encore appearance of Friday night’s chocolate cake with soya cappuccino.

Post marathon meal
Sunday April 19th/6pm

Dinner began once again (upon my special request) with the fresh fruit cocktail.
Lilia asked me what I would like to eat that evening and I asked her to make that decision for me. I wanted her to surprise me. I was quite confident that I would not be disappointed.

She brought a plate of scrumptious fresh salad which I inhaled almost immediately, followed by a vegan Pepper steak with, what I was advised, a distinct Austrian personality, alongside potatoes with a slight dollop of flavorful pesto chutney hiding among the potatoes. The steak (the name, unsettling to my vegan sensibilities, was ignored) was delightfully tender and the occasional pepper stung my palate dutifully, yet mildly. The entire presentation gently floated in a savory sauce with, what appears to be, a guest appearance of basil. I am charmed, but of course. Dessert arrived in the form of a vegan "moon cake" topped with a layer of “agar-agar” (veg gelatin substitute) and fresh fruit. The sweetness was nuanced to perfect measure while the fruit lent that necessary freshness to the composition.

My palate was joyous with the mercies my visits to Bio Bar von Antun had bestowed upon it.

I woke up early Monday morning, unwillingly subjected myself to a cold shower and left the calm streets of Vienna for the clangorous New York City.

So, thus was my Vienna visit. A new city visited and explored albeit briefly, a marathon finisher’s medal pocketed, and a new addition to my treasure trove of friendships. All of it, in just 3 days.

Until next time….
Cheers!
Deepak