Friday May 8th - Sunday May 10th
I felt nostalgic and I can’t fathom why but that is the feeling which came upon me from the moment I first set foot in this city of “a 100 spires” - Praha, or more commonly known, Prague - the sprawling, visually fascinating capital of the Czech Republic, much of which was once known as Bohemia, the historic country of Central Europe.
I have never been here before and nor do I have something Czech that checkers my past, so why the nostalgia, I wondered.
I could pen tomes about Prague’s beauty and charm but you have heard that before, haven’t you? If you Google Prague, you will encounter several essays in flattering prose about the City’s magical beauty, and yes, all that is very true. Its beauty is arresting, indeed. As I walked the streets, my feet seem to sink into the muddy vestiges of the past. From a distance Prague appears to be a city where the past seems to reside harmoniously in the warm coffers of the present. As they stand next to each other, the young is respectful of the old. This “respect” appears to melt off the structural facade of the past and manifests itself into its people. As I rode the trains, buses and the trams, I noticed an eager and ready display of honor by the youth of their seniors. It appeared to flow effortlessly, without being demanded. I was impressed.
Last month I visited its neighbor Austria. Vienna offers a similar charm and all elements artistically, culturally and historically engaging, however, the two possess different personalities, quite like a pair of twins who grew up to be different but never stopped to look alike in the mirror. Prague appears to be more energetic when compared to Vienna’s more staid persona.
The flight to Prague
My Czech Airlines flight no. 51 from JFK landed in Prague at 6 am on Friday. Prior to landing, an announcement “Passengers suffering from swine flu and requiring assistance, please contact ground crew once we land in Prague” struck to me as odd. Announcements on board made during flight were heavily accented, so I wasn’t particularly stricken by its odd grammar or fluency. It was more about its subject. Well, it soon became clear. A young man aboard was allegedly suffering from swine flu. Perhaps the presence of an ailing passenger was kept under wraps to prevent panic during the 8-hour flight. His identity was revealed upon landing. Masked personnel entered the aircraft and went directly to him. He was removed with a mask over his mouth. No one seemed fazed except the woman who was sitting next to the lad. The crew members took down the contact information of the passengers sitting in close proximity to him and then the rest of us disembarked once he was out of sight.
Swine Flu - absence of paranoia
Throughout my stay in Prague I did not detect any heightened paranoia over the spread of the flu virus. People appeared calm and composed in trams, buses, trains and at all other public places. The news media itself seemed indifferent to what had consumed us all so fiercely in the US. Perhaps, fear is the virus we need to be most fearful of.
Commute to Hotel
My commute from the airport to the hotel lasted for an hour and included all three modes of public transportation the city has to offer. I took the bus number 119 from the airport to city center. It cost me 30 Czech Crowns (US$1 is approximately Kr 20). The bus deposited me at the Metro stop - Dejvika - where, a very helpful metro station officer, patiently explained to me how to get to my hotel. I was directed to take the “A” train to Metro station “Mustek” and then change to the tram number 9 at “Vaklavske Namesti” and step off at “Husinecka”. I followed the instructions and managed to get to the hotel by 8am. Since check-in time was 2pm, and there were no available rooms so early in the day, I was asked to return around noon to check availability. I deposited my baggage, freshened up, ate breakfast at the hotel restaurant (free of charge) and decided to visit the marathon expo to pick up my race packet. Oh, I forgot to mention, I was in Prague to run the Prague marathon on Sunday morning.
The Hotel
I stayed at the Three Crowns Hotel which is located in Zizkov (Praha 3), an eclectic, artsy, working class neighborhood - a little rough around the edges. A nice hotel it was but lacked in service, especially, housekeeping! I stayed there three nights and two days and my room wasn’t cleaned even once. I reported the lack of housekeeping on Saturday morning to the front desk, an apology was furnished to me but with a grim face and shrugged shoulders. Two fresh towels were handed to me as a consolation. On Sunday evening, my complaint about lack of housekeeping for two consecutive days received a smile and shrugged shoulders. Two fresh towels were handed to me with regret. I was informed that the entire hotel was serviced by one housekeeping maid and there is only so much she can do in one day. I was flummoxed by the response. Was I required to sympathize with the maid’s misfortune? I conveyed my annoyance sternly which was lost in translation and seemingly fell on deaf ears - very apparent, because the smile gave way to a giggle. I was too disinclined to exert myself any further and abandoned further pursuit of the matter.
Praha
“A City of a Hundred Spires”
“The Golden City”
“The City of Bridges”
“The Mother of all Cities”
............. is the flattering phraseology attributed to Prague by some.
Absolutely bewitching!, such is the dark, haunting beauty of Prague. Gold-tipped domes, sprawling majestic cathedrals, imposing towers and spires grace the city’s skyline. The stunning Romanesque architecture and gothic structures lend the City’s facade a romantic but foreboding allure. Cobble-stoned streets and alleyways run helter-skelter about the city alongside their more contemporary wider versions which make up the major streets and highways. The narrow passages and medieval lanes playfully disappear into each other, especially in the Old Town which houses a dense cluster of architectural gems, deservingly dubbed as the “Prague Pompeii”. Everywhere one turns, imposing vestiges of the gilded age of the 19th century, when Prague sparkled in wealth and culture, meet the eye. You can’t help but slow down in this city. It compels you to stop, stare and gawk.
The city has an unhurried pace. Even during rush hour, no one brushes past you with a doomsday cometh fiery trail. Large sunlit courtyards and squares dot the city where cozy sidewalk cafes lend opportunity for a late afternoon tea, coffee or a frothy pint of beer and lazy chatter.
The Vltava River runs through Prague and is the longest river in the Czech Republic. A number of bridges hover over the river adding further to the City’s mesmerizingly romantic charm, the oldest among them is the Charles Bridge which is akin to an outdoor museum lined up with marvelous statues on either side of the bridge.
Today Prague is rapidly gaining popularity as a tourist destination in Europe. Alongside the splendid architectural marvels from the medieval era, Prague offers the very best of all things contemporary. It is a virtual playground for the shopaholics with large glittering malls housing the best, the chic and the popular. Prague is also known for its pulsating nightlife boasting of some of the hottest clubs in Europe. It is a city that must be experienced.
The Currency
The Czech Crown continues to be the primary currency most businesses prefer to conduct business with, however, the country is expected to fully embrace the Euro sometime in 2010. Most establishments I visited accepted my American Express card which was surprising to me because, from my personal travel experience, Amex does not appear to be the preferred card of choice in Europe. As mentioned before, one US Dollar approximately fetches twenty Czech Crowns.
The Czechs
Attitude, yes, they have it. Overall friendly, polite, helpful and kind but there exists an icy layer underneath the warm, welcoming veneer. Most were eager to help me with directions, even engage in casual confab and impart advice when solicited. I did not face any language handicap anywhere in Prague. Almost everyone spoke English, however, Czech and Slovak are the official languages of Prague.
The Marathon
The Prague marathon is one of the more popular marathons in Europe and it had caught my attention last year when one of my friends participated in it and spoke well of it. After a heated contest which occurred mostly in my head, I opted for this over another race, as my first marathon of 2009, however, that wasn’t to be after my last minute change-of-heart and I ended up running the Vienna Marathon instead of the previously intended Vienna “Half Marathon”. That was three weeks prior to the Prague race. Still recovering from the Vienna race, I found myself at the start line on Sunday morning, somewhat weary and wary.
My iPhone alarm chimed at 5am and I was out of the bed at 5:30am, when the third and final reminder boomed in my ears and I could no longer convince myself to remain in bed. The hotel decided to open its breakfast room an hour earlier at 6am to offer hot coffee to its guest athletes. I was down there sipping away at my expressos at 6am sharp and departed from the hotel at 7:30am to be at the starting lineup by 8:30am. Bleary eyed runners wearing their running gears and “morning faces” spilled out from all corners of the city and pilled up on trains, trams and buses to descend upon the Old Town Square where the race began and eventually ended.
Race mornings are quaintly unifying wherein strangers suddenly bond and connect through the sport. Personal information is exchanged without restraint and for a few fleeting moments we exist in a bubble of fuzzy communal camaraderie which, in many ways, is comforting and often gratifying because, it is good to know that there are many other “crazy people” who relish running 26.2 miles on a crisp Sunday morning and enjoy the pain that the human body endures in the process. Some of us also travel across continents and oceans to subject our bodies to the grueling task of covering that distance on foot.
So, there I was, standing alone but not quite, among a few thousand others, ready to run another 26.2 miles in a new city far away from home. I looked around and faces represented different parts of the globe, all brought together to this one place with one objective. Stories exchanged, words of encouragement and cheer lavished in ample measure dutifully by their supporters and personal cheering squads, last minute gear checks performed, some pre-race stretching maneuvers employed, iPod playlists reworked, pre-race photographs snapped with bright (sometimes nervous) smiles and warm hugs...... I witnessed it all from my quiet vantage point squatting on the ground without any accoutrements to amuse and engage me, but the sights and sounds of the environs I suddenly found myself to be a part of, proved as sufficient divertissement.
The race began. We all surged ahead. It was a gorgeous, crisp, bright sunny day in Prague. Perfect for a long run but some found it rather too warm for running a marathon. I was one of the last ones to cross the start line and trailed behind for a considerable length of time until a sudden electric charge sparked in me and I found myself sprinting ahead, much to my own surprise.
The race route is visually engaging. We ran through the Old Town and its small lanes and alleyways, then veered off onto the main city streets, ran along the Vltava River and over many of its bridges which afforded us scenic views of the City and the route meandered through many of Prague’s landmarks. The race route was comfortable and flat, however, sections of it required running on cobble-stoned streets which I found somewhat unnerving. I feared tripping and falling but all went well.
It is a very well organized race and I recommend it to anyone who might be considering an international (overseas) race for next year. Water stations and toilet facilities were available every three or four kilometers, however, one foible (at least in my personal opinion) plagued the race organization - bananas! Why would they offer bananas at water stations??? The fruit ends up gracing the very ground we sprint over. Now, what do they say about running over banana peels, eh??? Hmmm...
All was going well, at least so I believed. When I crossed the 34 Kilometer marker, I looked at my watch and discovered that it had only been 3 hours and 46 minutes. Just 8 more kilometers to go. Yay! I was doing rather well, I discovered, much to my amazement. Some quick math led me to believe that I could finish the race under 4 hours 30 minutes, which would be better than my 2008 NYC Marathon (my first marathon) time of 4 hours 36 minutes. I ran for another 15 minutes and stopped at the next the water station for some refreshment. So far, I had not stopped anywhere. Running past water stations I would slowed down, pick up a cup of water and kept running but this time I decided to stop. By now, my hips, lower back, gluteus maximus, knees and ankles protested acutely. I saw fresh cut oranges on the table and grabbed a couple. Some water, some sport drink and after only a few pieces of oranges, I decided to get back to running but......I found to my horror, I couldn’t run anymore. I must be imagining, I wondered. I attempted to push my body forward, it just wouldn’t launch into a jog. In the interim, the pain grew exponentially. Reclaiming my calm, I decided to walk a bit and I did but repeated attempts to relaunch into a jog or run failed. I still had 4 more kilometers ahead of me. With no other options, I resigned to walking as much as I could, despite the rising discomfort. Too ashamed of walking past the finish line, I somehow brought myself to run the last kilometer. I did. It was over, finally. 5 hours and 4 minutes - far from what I had envisioned, but hey, I did it and thats what matters to me.
“I (don’t) see fat people”
My eyes did not register obesity anywhere. The Czechs, notwithstanding their high-caloried carnivorous diet, appeared fairly fit people. I was intrigued. Despite a seemingly more relaxed lifestyle compared to NY, the Prague denizens appeared lithe, fit, agile and active. My curiosity drove me to confront a Prague native about it and the response was - “We are active in Prague. We like to eat healthy and play hard.”. “Eat healthy”???? Hmm.....
Deodorant
I suspect that some Central Europeans haven’t quite discovered the fragrant benefits of deodorants, or maybe, they are just opposed to the idea. I encountered this in Vienna too, but some Czechs seemed particularly agreeable to dispense with deodorants and wear their individual redolence much to the disillusionment of my schnozzle. Often in public places the “spicy whiff” would catch me unawares and I would be rendered temporarily numbed. Can you imagine the “sulphuric cloud” that hung over the Old Town Square on race morning with multitudes milling in one location? I feared, if someone lit a match, there would be an explosion!
Thai massage
Quite like the pre-recessionary presence of Starbucks at every other block in Manhattan, I noticed Thai massage parlors everywhere in Prague. I enquired and was advised that spas and massage facilities were quite popular in Prague and Thai massage was particularly so. No particular reason was presented to me when enquired. It has been around for a long time and the Czechs tend to patronize wellness and spa establishments. In fact, Czech Republic has numerous “Spa Cities” which are located in picturesque locales in close proximity to hot water springs, brimming with healthful minerals and salts.
Public Transportation
The city has a very modern, efficient and clean public transportation system which is serviced by trains (Metro), trams and buses. Since I stayed for three days, I bought a 3-day pass for Kr 330, which gave me unlimited access to all three modes of transportation. Quite like in Vienna, one is not required to swipe or present the ticket to anyone, however, spot checks are conducted by the cops and if caught without a ticket or a ticket which is not validated, you are in trouble. The service is frequent and everything operates by the schedule, almost down to the minute. What a relief!
Sausage, Goulash, Pizza, Beer and.....Becherovka
I am vegan and once again, here I was, determinedly determined to survive in “sausage country”. Czech gastronomy is dense in calories and fatty. It could not be any more contrary to my dietary preferences. Prague is a haven for meat lovers, however, Italian food seemed to gain good favor with the natives. Pizzerias and Italian restaurants were spotted everywhere. I ate at a couple of Italian restaurants and the food was very agreeable. Surprisingly, everywhere I went, the servers were knowledgeable about vegan lifestyle and very willing to cater to my dietary preference. There are several vegan eateries in Prague and I visited a couple of them .......
“Country Life”, run by Seventh Day Adventists. It is primarily a health food store but one of its four branches in the City (the one located in the Old Town Square) also has a restaurant which has both indoor and outdoor seating. Both hot and cold food is served in cafeteria style and the furniture was reminiscent of a wooden lodge. I purchased some vegan cookies from the store and ate at the restaurant next door.
“VegFood” - an Asian restaurant with an international vegan soul. It is located in a predominantly residential neighborhood. I ordered vegan cutlets and a Beijing faux meat specialty which came with rice (the name escapes me). Fresh, wholesome, and agreeable to the palate and to the wallet!
“Dahab”, a middle-eastern eatery, which gained favor with some online veggie reviewers and therefore, caught my attention. It is located on Dlouha street in the Old Town. Here, I wolfed down a falafel sandwich which was quite satisfying.
Beer, considered as “liquid gold”, is regarded as the national drink of Czech Republic. The Czechs have brewed beer since early 10th century. The Czech agricultural conditions are considered ideal for growing hops, which contributes to the country’s large scale beer production and consumption. It tastes great and is very cheap. The world’s first clear golden lager - Pilsner - is their gift to the world. The nation has the highest per capita consumption of the beverage anywhere in the world. I believe some Czechs even consume beer at breakfast! I searched for “Staropramen”, a beer brand made in Prague, but it seemed to be in short supply and so, at the suggestion of the server, I tried “Krusovice” (the darker ale) and loved it. It had a smooth, full-bodied, roasted character to it and settled rather delicately on the palate. I found it very refreshing. By the way, I had no idea that Budweiser (in German, “Budvar” in Czech) is a Czech beer. Needless to mention here, I drank more beer in Prague than I ever do in NYC.
Prior to arriving in Prague, my research afforded me some familiarity of a curious Czech liquor - “Becherovka” - this is a traditional Czech liquor which I learned is very popular and must be had when in Prague. I was glad to oblige. It had an unmistakable, unique taste - floral and herbal - with strong notes of aniseed. The bartender emphasized by running her hands over her belly that the liqueur is a unique “secret” herbal blend possessing medicinal qualities and deemed very beneficial for digestion and digestive issues. I am not sure its “unusual” floral taste blossomed well on my taste buds but it is definitely worth umm....a shot.
After three glorious days of sunny weather, the heavens opened up on Monday and it poured heavily lending a luxurious and sensual wetness to the City’s lush visage. Quite like the way I reached the hotel upon my arrival, I retraced my footsteps back to the airport on that damp Monday morning - with each retraced step bidding farewell to a very satisfying visit.
I boarded my Czech Airlines flight back to NYC and once again, the airline messed up my special meal request for a vegan meal. It also happened to me when I was returning from Vienna last month after running the full marathon the previous day. Nine-hour flight and no food. I am getting accustomed to the idea of running marathons and fasting the next day. Oh well,....c’est la vie!
Here I am, returned from my travels with my senses awashed by the aqueous footprints of Bohemia.
